There are a number of lovely, atmospheric bars and cafes within the Capalbio city walls in the old town, and a couple on the edge of the outer city walls looking down to the sea. There’s also Il Frantoio below the walls on the Piazza della Providenza, which also has an excellent, but expensive, restaurant.

The coolest place to hang out, though, is La Bottega del Folle, which is on Piazza Belvedere; the main square at the entrance to the old town. It’s built right into the fortress wall to the right of the gate. It’s got a relaxed, retro vibe, has the best gelato in Capalbio, and is run by a certified mixologist, so the cocktails are fantastic! You’re on holiday…