The Aldobrandeschi family were originally dukes of Spoleto who accumulated great wealth and moved to the Maremma in the 9th century. Pretty little Sovana was the seat of their power and prestige throughout southern Tuscany despite being so tiny. It’s also the birthplace of Pope Gregory VII.

The castle was built in the early 11th century on the large foundation stones of an ancient Etruscan fortress but was abandoned in the late 13th century when the Sovana branch of the family fell apart. It was revived by the conquering Orsini family in the 15th century, who moved the regional capital to Pitigliano, so that was essentially the end of that. At the other end of town is the fabulous Il Sileno restaurant and pizzeria. Eat lunch there!