The beach at La Dogana in Chiarone is just five minutes drive down the coast from Capalbio. It’s right next to our favorite Ultima Spiaggia, and they’re both lovely. The water is clear and fresh, the sand fine and golden, and they’re both flanked by miles of free beach in eaither direction if you’ve got all your own stuff and want a bit more quiet and privacy.

They’re both charming because Dogana’s wide, shady patios and Ultima’s buildings have been built with wood which is now weathered and aged by the sea breezes and weather, so it’s all very rustic and authentic feeling. Both have great gelato, terrific bars and cafes, fine restaurants, umbrella and sunbed hire, bathrooms and showers, and relaxed and friendly clientele. They share a huge open parking area in the fields just behind the dunes so there’s always somewhere to park, and doggos are welcome.