The old center of Capalbio ringed by the city walls, with the town on the hill just below it. Casa Terra and Casa Blu are the yellow building directly behind the big tree on the left of the photo. That’s literally us! They are quiet and sunlit and private, have free wifi and parking, all the bedding and utensils you’ll need, and overlook the nature reserve and down to the sea.

Capalbio is the little jewel of the Maremma, and a wonderful base to visit the region. It’s just 5 minutes from the coastal beaches and 15 minutes from Orbetello and the Argentario. It has a number of excellent bars and restaurants, a modest range of fashion shops, and two small general stores, a bakery, butcher, and delicatessen that sell everything you need for the fridge and your stay.