Beautiful Marta on the shore of Lago di Bolsena east of of Capalbio, which is Italy’s largest volcanic lake. With a long lovely sandy beach to the south and a couple of terrific seafood restaurants, it’s as pretty as Capodimonte just around the corner, which has a lovely esplanade and regular artisan market along the water’s edge dotted with cafes and terrific gelaterias. Above Capodimonte, looking over the lake, is the imposing Farnese fortress, built by the Aldobrandeschi and used as a papal court in the 16th century by Alessandro Farnese, who was Pope Paul III.

The lake is a wonderful day trip, to explore medieval Bolsena on the north east shore, Marta, Capodimonte, the grassy rustic north shore, or to hang out in the cool cafes and eat a fabulous pizza at Da Ivaldo pizzeria in the south eastern corner where Via del Lago comes down to the shore from Montefiascone towering above the lake.