A suitably dramatic picture of the lovely Ischia di Castro, north east of Capalbio near Lake Bolsena. Dramatic, because of the tragic story of the town of Castro nearby. Castro had ancient prehistoric origins and was a thriving Etruscan city, a medieval castle and a history of proud autonomy in the Middle Ages, but in the 17th century it was caught up in the factional power struggles between the ruling Farnese family, who treated the city well, and the Barberini family, who were supported by the Papacy.

This conflict peaked during the Wars of Castro between 1639 and 1641, which noone won, but when the newly installed Pope Innocent X sent a newly appointed bishop to Castro in 1649 the bishop was murdered and the the head of the Farnese family was blamed. In reply, the Pope ordered the city destroyed, the population murdered, and a column erected which states; “Here stood Castro.” It was never rebuilt, but the area is rich in archaeological ruins which can still be visited today.