The coastal road around Argentario is spectaular, and exciting, because a large part of it was destroyed in an earthquake years ago and still hasn’t been repaved. Despite this, it’s quite doable carefully in a family car, and the long section of rocky dirt road leading down into Porto Ercole features some of the most spectacular views in the region. Start in Porto Santo Stefano and go that way, because much of the road is then ‘down’ and you’ll get a better view.
The coastline is rocky and steep, dotted by little exclusive gated communities and villas perched on the cliff tops, and there are numerous wonderful little coves and bays and lovely little beaches with the clearest blue water and little bars which we ourselves have only properly explored in the last few years. It’s terrific, and makes a wonderful change from the long sandy beaches.