The wild and rocky western coastline of Argentario looking out towards the islands of Giglio and Giannutri further west. It’s inaccessible in parts, heavily wooded and stony, and dotted with gorgeous inlets and coves and small gated communites and secluded villas along the Strada Panoramico, which winds its way down the coastline from Porto Santo Stefano in the north down and around to Porto Ercole in the south west.

This summer we explored another way to cross the promotory from north to south, following a hunch and reckless curiosity, by turning south on the small Via del Olmo road at Pozzarello on the road before Porto Santo Stefano. The initial drive is lovely, winding it’s way up towards and around the mountain, but the second part of the drive is rocky and uneven and steep in parts, requiring slow speeds and nerve as the track turns down towards the coast before joining up with the Panoramico in the south. It’s fun, but less spectacular than we’d hoped.